Salvador is located on a peninsula which shields the large Baía de Todos os
Santos ("Bay of All Saints") from the Atlantic Ocean. The city is the third
largest in Brazil, sprawling for dozens of kilometers inland from the coast.
Most visitors head for the coastal neighborhoods that cluster around where the
bay meets the ocean. A 100m cliff runs along the entire bay shore, dividing the
city into Cidade Alta, up on the cliff, and the Cidade Baixa down
by the bay. The former features Pelourinho, the old city center that packs
historical sites, colonial architecture, museums, restaurants, bars, hostels,
artisan shops, and music/dance/capoeira academies into a convenient, albeit
tourist-swarmed, set of winding cobblestone streets. The latter features a
commercial center with lots of bus traffic coming in from all over Salvador.
Outside of this area, there are many beach districts that stretch from the tip of the peninsula northeast along the Atlantic coast.
The Barra neighborhood at the top of the peninsula is the main alternative
jumping-off point to Pelourinho, and a little further to the northeast are the
hip neighborhoods of Rio Vermelho and Amaralina, which feature a
nightlife less geared to the foreign tourism industry. A decent bus ride beyond
these is the neighborhood of Itapuã, which has an energetic beach side
nightlife and relatively few foreign visitors. Northward from there are
kilometers and kilometers of gorgeous beaches, all accessible by bus.
The bay shore coast north beyond Pelourinho features a more tranquil atmosphere and a locally patronized, though less scenic, beach life. The interior of Salvador is where the "new city" has developed, full of residential neighborhoods, shopping megaplexes, and knotted highways, all of which can be quite alienating without actually having a friend to show you around.
By plane: The Salvador's Deputado Luis Eduardo Magalhães Int'l Airport is
one of Brazil's main airports, all biggest Brazilian airlines have flights to
the Bahia capital city. The city also receives flights from the main airports of
Europe, South America and United States. The airport is 28km from the city
centre (via Paralela express way) or 32km (via seaside). Two kinds of taxis are
available in the airport, the executive taxis (Coometas and Comtas), and
the normal taxis. Executive taxis are pre-paid, they have a table of
prices rather than a meters. The other taxi option would be the normal taxis
which are metered. A third option would be the executive minibuses
which depart every 20 minutes to the Praça da Sé, in downtown near Pelourinho
via the seaside, stopping in famous beaches like Ondina, Pituba, Amaralina and
Itapoã, the fare is R$4. Another option is the urban buses that go to many parts
of the city, for the tourist the options are Lapa, Campo Grande and São Joaquim
buses, the best thing is ask the driver before taking an urban bus, the
fare is R$2. Linha Verde executive buses go to Praia do Forte and depart often
from the airport.
By bus: Salvador's long-distance bus station is in the middle of the new
city, 14km from downtown. Salvador is accessible via scheduled buses from all
around the country and from Paraguay. Inside the bus stations there are taxis
(local taxis and executive taxis) and local buses which can all take you to many
places in Salvador and the metropolitan area. Executive buses in the Iguatemi
Station can be accessed from the Iguatemi Mall by way of a busy walkway. Bus
travel in and out of Salvador can take a lot more time than expected. Count on
an average speed of 50-60 km/hr when planning your itinerary.
Carnaval: Salvador's giant Carnival, the biggest of the world, according
to the Guiness book of records, lasts for one week and is extremely popular with
Brazilians and tourists alike. From February 19th until February 24th. You can
find all the information here:
http://www.carnaval.salvador.ba.gov.br &
http://home.centraldocarnaval.com.br/
To See in Salvador: At the center of the Cidade Alta there are the two
large squares Praça da Sé and the Terreiro de Jesus which are connected
at the corner by the cathedral. The latter is probably the liveliest part of
town, with food carts and stalls through the day and revelers in the evening
hours. Museu Afro-Brasileiro, a museum that documents the slave trade and
subsequent development of the city. Largo do Pelourinho , a fairly small
triangular plaza, is among the oldest parts of town. You can guess from its name
meaning "plaza of the pillory" what went on around there. Mercado Modelo,
the city's main market located in the lower town is and a good place for crafts
and other souvenirs. In the adjacent square you can often see young men
performing capoeira, the famous martial arts dance which originates from the
area. Igreja do Nosso Senhor do Bonfim, a small church located in a
neighborhood to the north, is one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in all of
Brazil. The colorful votive ribbons or fitas of Bonfim are an easily
recognizable item throughout Brazil and even beyond. Children outside the church
will (for a small fee) tie them around your wrist and tell you to make a wish
for each one. If the ribbon wears off naturally, the wish will come true; if you
cut it off before then, it won't. You can get to Bonfim by city bus in about
fifteen minutes. Abaeté Park, a protected state park around the lake with
same name. The lake is famous because of the stark contrast between the dark
water and the very white sand dunes. There is a entertainment area with a lot of
bars and live music. Solar do Unhão, the best place in Salvador to watch
the sunset. It is an old style house located at the Baía de Todos os Santos.
Inside there is a small museum (Museu de Arte Moderna) with local art
pieces. Sometimes on Saturday afternoons there is a jam session.
Around Salvador: For a nice day trip, catch the ferry to the laid-back
island of Itaparica. Salvador is also the gateway to many other nearby
attractions such as Praia do Forte. Beach town with the "Project Tamar"
turtle sanctuary, Boipeba. A beautiful and very pleasant island, Morro
de Sao Paulo. Very frequented island by tourists and locals, plenty of
restaurants, hostels and bars. It has four beaches with translucent water,
Massarandupió. Just 90 km from Salvador, it's a true paradise, a semi-desert
beach, with a small river. Walking by the beach you can reach a naturist area.
EAT: Brazil is the #1 organic food producer in the world, which accounts
for more than 80% of all food in the country. You will probably notice that most
of the time you will eat more tasteful dishes which are also more easily
digested. That will leave you with an unusuall "light" feeling and many less
inches in your waistline. This abundant healthy food, clean water and frequent
practice of several sports, explains why Brazilians are famous for developing an
amazing shape, outstanding vigor and good humor.
DRINK: Bar da Ponta, beside the Trapiche Adelaide. A place to see and be seen, have a fantastic view of the bay. Beco dos Artistas, near Campo Grande. One of the gay and lesbian areas of the city, with a diversified crowd. The area has various bars, a nightclub, and a restaurant. Bohemia Music Bar, Jardim Brasil. The comfortable atmosphere, live music, and a varied menu make this a popular pick-up spot. Chuleta, Vale do Canela (near the UFB campus and the neighborhoods of Graça and Vitória). Boteco frequented by university students, famous for its cheap beer and for the meat snack from which the bar takes its name. Open air, plastic tables. Largo de Santana, Rio Vermelho. This busy street has various bars and restaurants, and some of the best acarajé in town. Mercado do Peixe, Rio Vermelho (at the seaside in front of the Blue Tree Towers Hotel). One of the best after-hours spots, Mercado do Peixe is a real Salvador institution. It starts to get busy after 3AM when everywhere else is closing. With simple accommodations and plastic tables, various stands stay open offering moquecas and regional appetizers, in addition to drinks. During the day it is, as its name suggests, a traditional seafood market. Sankofa African Bar e Restaurante, Rua Frei Vicente, No 7, Pelourinho. In the middle of the Pelourinho. Live bands (salsa, samba, reggae, zouk, semba) and DJ's spinning African, Brasilian and world music. Tasty African dishes and drinks are also offered. African flags, maps, and artworks adorn the walls. The top floor has a projection system showing films and documentaries. Hostel Galeria 13, Pelourinho, Rua da ordem terceira no 23.The new native English speaking owner has traveled & worked in many famous bars & clubs around the world you will get a chance to check out his knowledge of drinks. They offer great juices with a touch of ginger 'refreshing’, or maybe a caipirinha or roska with water melon already being boasted the best in Brasil, a big Claim take him up on it. You can enjoy your drinks in the garden or the most original spot in Pelourinho, the Morrocan "chill out" room.
NIGHTLIFE-Clubbing: Dolce, on the first floor of Shopping Boulevard 161, Itaigara. Very busy club, attracting a somewhat older crowd. Fashion Club, Ave Octávio Mangabeira, 2.471, Pituba, 71 3346 0012. Once the most vibrant nightclub in Salvador, Fashion Club has taken somewhat of a backseat since the opening of Lotus. Prices, however, are around half of what you would pay at Lotus. Lotus — Without a doubt, the most popular nightclub in Salvador. Attracts mostly upper class locals, due to its elevated prices. This is where the beautiful people of Salvador go. Lotus is the sister location of the homonymous New York club. Off Clube, Rua Dias Dávila, 33, Barra, 71 3267 6215. The main gay and lesbian club in town. A variety of events attracts locals of all social classes. Rock in Rio Café — now considered the third best nightclub in town. The major attraction here is the pagode bands that play. Zauber Multicultura, Ladeira da Misericórdia, 11, Edifício Taveira, Comércio, 71 3326 2964. Combining music and visual arts in one of the most important historic areas of the city. The space bridges between the old (architecture) and the new (decoration). Find out what is going on before you go, and take a taxi, as the location is in a rather dangerous and prostitution-plagued area of the city.